Finishing

  • This is the same wax Chestnut use in the tinned version of Microcrystalline Wax but in a solid block form with no solvent. This means there’s no waiting around for it to dry before buffing it. Like the original version, this wax should be used very sparingly, a little goes a very long way and once applied it might even be necessary to spread it thinner using Safety Cloth (the texture of this makes it ideal for this purpose). The Microcrystalline Wax Stick is also perfect for use on the Buffing Wheel System, use it on Wheel C to buff up to a brilliant, hard wearing finish.
  • When you need to protect your work but don’t want an overpowering shine on it, Acrylic Satin Lacquer is an ideal choice. With the benefit of an easy aerosol application, especially useful on awkward shapes, this is a hard wearing water based lacquer that will protect whatever it’s put onto, leaving an attractive satin sheen. Acrylic Satin Lacquer is touch dry and dust free in about five minutes and hard dry about 20 minutes, ready for a second coat if needed after a light cut back with a fine abrasive. For best results it should be used over either Cellulose Sanding Sealer or the Acrylic Sanding Sealer aerosol. If you have a change of heart on the finish the lacquer can be brought to a gloss by using either Burnishing Cream or the Buffing Wheel Kit. Or you can simply apply a coat of Acrylic Gloss Lacquer!
  • Hampshire Sheen - Lacquer 500ml Aerosol have been formulated to be strong, flexible and very glossy. They can be used for both internal and external projects. Glass like finishes can be achieved with these two superb acrylic spray lacquer products. Supplied in 500ml cans with 2 nozzles.
  • Hampshire Sheen – Inlays

    £7.15£11.50
    Hampshire Sheen - Inlays, metal powder and decorative sand inlays are a popular choice to team up with the CA glues. Powders supplied in 250g-350g bottles, Sands in 250g & 350g shakers.
  • Cut’n’Polish is a blend of two waxes with a fine abrasive held in suspension within them. This is a soft wax designed to stay ‘wet’ slightly longer during application, allowing it to lubricate the abrasive to give a very fine cut to the timber and also to collect any dust generated during use and some subsequent sanding, preventing it from entering the workshop atmosphere. On bare wood; sand to 240 grit as normal, apply a coat of Cut’n’Polish with the lathe stopped, then switch on the lathe and buff to a soft sheen whilst smoothing the timber at the same time. On sealed wood apply after the sealer in the same way, polishing to a slightly higher shine. Cut’n’Polish dries almost immediately and can be overcoated with Friction Polish or any Chestnut waxes for a higher shine.
  • Very high viscosity formula, super thick and super strong. Allows approximately 30 - 40 seconds for positioning. Cures in 90 seconds, ideal for gap filling. Use zip kicker to accelerate cure time.
  • If you’re looking for a finish that won’t change the colour of your timber, won’t overpower the natural beauty of the wood with a high gloss but will still protect the timber and smell nice, well, you’re in the right place! Lemon Oil is a clear, low build finish. By that we mean that it’s a very thin liquid with a very low solids content, so no matter how much you apply it’s not going to build up to a discernible visible film on the surface. Instead it soaks in and seals the surface, offering a level of water resistance and protection against handling. Normally applied with a brush or a cloth it’s very  easy to use and covers well and doesn’t usually show overlaps, so it’s ideal for large areas which often look better without a high gloss. And as you might expect, it has a pleasant lemon aroma too, although this does fade after a while.
  • Hampshire Sheen’s Danish Oil is food contact and toy safe when fully cured and complies to EU71 regulation. Thinner, more penetrating and less smelly that other Danish Oils, this product contains only pure Tung Oil and no artificial varnish, resins or other vegetable oils.
  • Ebonising Lacquer is a tough, hard-wearing water-based lacquer. It is heavily pigmented so that when it is dry it emulates the classic satin look of ebony. Usually applied over a sanding sealer (either Cellulose Sanding Sealer or Acrylic Sanding Sealer aerosol) it is touch dry in about five minutes and hard dry after twenty minutes. Although heavily pigmented it is not paint and will still allow the grain of the timber to show through, rather than obliterating it completely. Liming Wax and Gilt Cream can be applied over Ebonising Lacquer to give a pleasing, eye-catching yet very simple artistic effect. If a bright gloss finish is required from Ebonising Lacquer this is best achieved by using Burnishing Cream on the lacquer with will polish it up to a high gloss. Acrylic Gloss Lacquer can also be applied on top of Ebonising Lacquer, as can WoodWax 22 and Microcrystalline Wax.
  • If you don’t have access to spraying equipment, this aerosol lacquer will give you a great finish quickly and easily. A spray application is particularly relevant when trying to achieve the best gloss finish possible. Acrylic Gloss Lacquer is a high build water based lacquer specially adapted to give the best delivery through the nozzle (chosen to give excellent results without spitting, spotting or clogging in normal use) without, of course, the use of CFCs. The lacquer itself dries quickly to give a high gloss finish straight from the can which has the benefit of being extremely hard wearing and durable – so much so that it can be used on items that will be kept outdoors or used in areas where moisture could damage other finishes. Acrylic Gloss Lacquer is touch dry and tack free in around five minutes and hard dry in twenty minutes, ready for a second coat if needed after a light rubdown with a fine abrasive. The sheen level can be increased if required by using Burnishing Cream (which will not affect the durability) or, after allowing 24 hours to ensure it is completely hard dry, by using it in conjunction with the Buffing Wheel Kit.
  • Fine finishing starts with good preparation! Use these mildly abrasive pads after sanding for that final smoothing process to give a near-perfect surface prior to applying any finish. Very long lasting, these pads are also very flexible and do not crumble, thus avoiding any fear of contamination of your work. Exercise care when using these pads with the lathe revolving.
  • This is an oil type finish similar to Danish oil but nothing like it. This product is designed to be hand rubbed on to raw timber, giving a finish with a hard, bright, high gloss. It will bring out amazing depth and brilliance to most timbers making the grain pop and become opalescent, vibrant, shimmering and alive. Especially when used on a fine grained, highly figure timber. And if that's not enough it does it all in a matter of minutes.

    Aussie Oil is ideal for use on most small items like pendants, brooches, earrings, small turned items that cannot be fully finished on the lathe. Pens, magnifying glass handles, compacts, key rings, letter openers, in fact almost anything made of wood you can comfortably hold in your hand to polish.

    As an extra added bonus, it also works brilliantly as a friction polish on the lathe.

     
  • he waterproof formula provides superior bond strength, longer open assembly time and lower application temperature.
  • WoodWax 22 contains beeswax (for shine) and carnauba wax (for hardness). Blended together in a solvent to produce a soft creamy paste. This makes it very easy to apply over any surface. WoodWax 22 is quick drying enough to be applied onto unsealed wood but works best on one of Chestnuts sanding sealers. If working on the lathe the wax should be applied with the lathe stopped. Apply using a cloth (Safety Cloth or Stockinette works well with this); the wax spreads easily over the surface, after about 20 seconds it starts to drag slightly. This means it is ready to buff up; if you haven’t covered the whole piece by then don’t worry, just take a little more wax from the tin and carry on applying, the wax won’t mind waiting! It’s best to buff WoodWax 22 as soon as you can; that way any surplus wax that might have been applied will be removed, allowing the shine to really show through. If working on the lathe Safety Cloth should be used for the buffing process and let the lathe do the work for you. Off the lathe Safety Cloth or Stockinette can be used. A second or even third coat of wax can be applied if required, leaving about twenty minutes between coats. After three coats the finish can become softer and will mark very easily.
  • 2" arbors 50mm x 6mm spindle pad with a 20mm foam, soft pad for external and shallow curves . Accepts all Velcro/loop backed abrasives including self or pre-cut squares and discs.
    • colour may vary
  • Velcro backed 6" (150mm) wide rolls x 1/2 metre of each of the following grits: 120G, 180G, 240G, 320G, 400G & 600G
  • Food Safe Finish is a clear, food grade mineral oil. Chestnut use a thin grade of oil to allow it to soak into bare timber which then protects it against water splashes etc whilst not tainting or affecting the food in any way. It dries to a fairly matt finish; it is however ideal to use for wet sanding and when used with a very fine abrasive it can give an exceptionally smooth surface which has its own gentle glow. Apply with a clean cloth or brush direct onto bare wood, up to three coats are recommended. If the oil sits on the surface and won’t soak in it means the timber has absorbed as much as it can and no further coats are needed. Any surplus can be removed with a clean cloth if required. Depending on the way the item is used it might be necessary to top-up the finish, especially if it is washed regularly.
  • Chestnut Finishing Oil is Chestnuts' version of Danish Oil* and uses Tung Oil as its base but with the addition of solvents and driers. This aids the drying of the product and speeds it up dramatically, so that it’s dry within eight hours. It has a pale amber colour and dries to a hard yet flexible film which is very hardwearing and water resistant. For a high gloss finish apply several coats with a light rub down between coats; after 5 or 6 coats a good sheen should be visible. Finishing Oil is normally applied by cloth but on larger areas a brush can be used very successfully.
  • 2" Soft density tapered arbor for external and shallow internal curves Accepts all Velcro/loop backed abrasives including self or pre-cut squares and discs.
    • colour may vary
  • Citrus Burnishing oil can be easily applied and then burnished dry in a matter of minutes, and can be overcoated with waxes or lacquers if you wish. Use multiple coats for a water and oil resistant finish suitable for salad, fruit and snack bowls. Easy to apply; Over 50% Tung Oil; Food Safe when dry; Fresh smell when dry, fading over time; Deeply penetrating and protecting; Will not chip, flake or peel; Naturally water and oil resistant when cured. Supplied in a 500ml (17.6oz) cone top bottle.
  • Designed specifically with pen turners in mind. This finishing kit consists of nine different, colour coded, foam backed sanding pads measuring 10cm (4") x 8.5cm (3.1/4"). Includes the following grit sizes: 1500 - Rust 1800 - Green 2400 - Black 3200 - Tan 3600 - Wine/Brown 4000 - Teal 6000 - Purple 8000 - Royal Blue 12000 - Grey Suitable for wood and acrylic blanks .
  • The finest of Steel Wool, very low crumble and virtually oil free to ensure there is no contamination of your work. Use it after sanding with abrasive sheets to give an ultra smooth surface, or to apply waxes to smooth the timber whilst applying a thin coat. Steel Wool burns very quickly and easily; keep it away from sources of combustion (i.e. sparks etc). Always use a knife or scissors to cut Steel Wool
  • A penetrative, nourishing, quality finishing oil which reflects the original, heavy-oil formulations that traditional Danish Oils were renowned for. As a clear finish will richly enhance the existing woodcolour/s. For best results, requires quality dry-sand surface preparation; using 600 /1200 / 1500 grit papers (the finer the better) Upon curing/drying (min. 14 days) makes for ideally prepared surface for further (optional) Waxing/Polishing.
  • Melamine Lacquer can be a bit fiddly to apply and there’s no better way than spraying it. If you don’t have access to spray equipment then this aerosol version is the ideal way. Melamine Gloss Lacquer will quickly build to a bright gloss finish and dries in a matter of minutes. Touch dry and safe to handle within five minutes the lacquer chemically cures to give a tougher finish. The lacquer achieves practically all of this (about 90%) within seven days, after which the process slows and can take up to another two weeks to fully complete. Best used over a Cellulose Sanding Sealer (brushing or aerosol) and can be overcoated with a wax for a softer tactile feel.
  • Liberon Black Patinating Wax is used for adding a coloured finish, highlighting areas or creating striking effects on all types of interior materials. It is ideal for ageing modern furniture, disguising repairs to old and new furniture, and highlighting areas on finished pieces and decorative carvings. It is suitable for use on wood, metal, gilt, plaster, tone, MDF and papier-mâché.
  • Hampshire Sheen Pen Turners Overcoat is a 100% microcrystalline stick for pen turners who enjoy the benefits of this special wax on their turned pens, be them wood or otherwise. It applies over any finish the turner favours to give a fingerprint resistant, glossy shine.
  • Hampshire Sheen Intrinsic Colours being water based, they are non-flammable, environmentally friendly and afford you a long working time. They sink deeply into the wood and preserve the appearance of the figure in the wood, releasing the hidden subtleties. Apply more than one coat of dye to build up depth of colour, and add a black or earth undercoat for an even more dramatic effect. For the adventurous colourist, Intrinsic Colours can be mixed together to create even more shades or thinned with water for a lighter shade.  
  • Tung Oil, or Chinese Wood Oil as it’s sometimes called, is a natural oil derived from the seed of the nut of the tung tree. The jury is out as to whether it can spark a nut allergy. Tung Oil air dries to form a tough, hard film that has a fairly strong amber tint. Because it doesn’t have any solvent or driers in it it can take a while to dry, and dependant on conditions this can be up to a week although 48 hours is more common. As with most finishes a thinner coat will dry quicker. Normally applied with a brush or cloth.
  • These compounds are designed to co-ordinate with the cloth used in the Buffing Wheels and Dome Buffs to give an exceptional cut and prepare the surface to a very smooth finish prior to using wax. Compound 1 -the brown one – (sometimes referred to as tripoli) is used with the ‘A’ Wheel/Dome to help smooth the applied finish. Avoid overloading the wheel/dome where possible to prevent a build up of the compound. If this happens it can be removed by either washing in soapy water or abrading the edge of the wheel with a coarse abrasive. Do not use on very open grained light coloured timber as the compound can get lodged in the grain and colour the piece. Compound 2 – the white one – (sometimes referred to as white diamond) acts as a cleanser to remove any traces of Compound 1 left on the surface (but not from the grain) and also has a very fine abrasive contained in it which smooths the work, leaving a semi-gloss finish and a superb foundation for the top coat of wax. Use Compound 2 sparingly, too much on the wheel will result in smears on the surface of your work which can be removed with buffing but this can be very time consuming and frustrating. It’s always best to apply a little and add more if needed.
  • This creamy liquid has a very mild abrasive within it which acts like ‘liquid sandpaper’ on finished surfaces, cutting back and cleaning the finish and elevating it to a glossier, brighter finish. It can be used to smooth Cellulose Sanding Sealer prior to applying wax or Friction Polish, or, after allowing a suitable time to dry, on any of the lacquers, Friction Polish, Finishing Oil or Hard Wax Oil. A deep finish can be achieved using Burnishing Cream on a coat of Melamine Lacquer, then a coat of Friction Polish and finally the Burnishing Cream again. Use it sparingly so as not to over lubricate the surface and be sure to shake the bottle before use. It is not advisable to use a lacquer on top of a surface that has had Burnishing Cream used on it.
  • Interior use only, initial tack time 30 mins, setting time 24 hours approximately. Open time 5 minutes, assembly time 10-15 minutes, shelf life 12 months (kept airtight).
  • The ideal way to experiment with the different colours available to decide which ones you prefer, the Spirit Stain Kit contains one bottle (min. contents 25ml) of each of the nine colours. These are exactly the same stain as in the bigger bottles and will intermix if you want to vary the shades available.
    The stains are very fade resistant, quick drying and non-grain raising.

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