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Hampshire Sheen embellishing wax is designed to be used on open grain woods such as oak or ash and works brilliantly to highlight textured elements on tighter grained woods. Use in conjunction with the Intrinsic Colour Collection for stunning results. Supplied in a 130g lever lid tin. Apply liberally and buff to a gloss. -
Chestnut Products’ Microcrystalline Wax is a blend of high quality waxes rich in microcrystalline wax – a wax derived from the petroleum refining process and known for the fineness of its crystals.
This is mixed with a special solvent to create a firm wax which, when dry, knits down to form a very dense coating making it very water resistant, meaning that it is ideal for any items that are likely to come into contact with water for short periods of time.
Microcrystalline waxes also have a higher melting point than other waxes traditionally used to make polishing waxes, the benefit of which is that repeated handling of items finished in Microcrystalline Wax won’t finger mark in the same way, as the melting point is higher than normal body temperature.
Microcrystalline Wax should be used over one of the Chestnut Products’ sanding sealers and allowed to dry (about 20 minutes) before buffing to a shine.
For best results apply a very thin coat, spreading the wax evenly over the entire surface.
Microcrystalline Wax can also be used on the buffing wheel system. In this situation use the A and B Wheel as normal, then apply the Microcrystalline Wax to the item you are polishing. Allow 20 minutes for the wax to dry then buff and normal using the C Wheel. You can use the same C Wheel for both Microcrystalline Wax and the Carnuaba Wax Stick.
Microcrystalline Wax has been tested to the EN71 Part 3 regulations regarding coatings used on toys.
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As the name suggests, the High Gloss variation brings a higher shine to your decorative woodwork . It is tough, with an additional 'Pow' of shine that suits some lathe projects. Contains a high quantity of carnauba and microcrystalline waxes. Shiny, tough and exceptionally long lasting. Food and toy safe, too. Supplied in 130g tins. -
Citrus Burnishing oil can be easily applied and then burnished dry in a matter of minutes, and can be overcoated with waxes or lacquers if you wish. Use multiple coats for a water and oil resistant finish suitable for salad, fruit and snack bowls. Easy to apply; Over 50% Tung Oil; Food Safe when dry; Fresh smell when dry, fading over time; Deeply penetrating and protecting; Will not chip, flake or peel; Naturally water and oil resistant when cured. Supplied in a 500ml (17.6oz) cone top bottle. -
This water based sanding sealer gets the job done without the smell associated with solvent based sealers and also with no flammability issues – ideal for asthma suffers and anyone with an aversion to solvent based finishes.
Applied by cloth, brush or spray (Chestnuts' foam brushes are especially good with this) the sealer dries in about 5 minutes and can be overcoated with most compatible finishes after about 20 minutes although two hours should be left if using Acrylic Lacquer.
Acrylic Sanding Sealer sands easily with a fine abrasive and is supplied ready for use.
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A refined Beeswax and Citrus Oil polish with pleasant aromatics and emulsified into a ready-to-use paste. For the palest, brightest cabinetry finish offered in our range; a double wax application and polish (min. 24 hours apart) to raw, fine-sanded woodwork would be recommended. -
When you’re looking for a hard-wearing, heat and water resistant, quick drying gloss lacquer you need look no further than Melamine Lacquer.
Based on cellulose technology, Melamine Lacquer has a catalyst suspended within it; when the lacquer is in the can it is inert but once applied and exposed to the air, the lacquer dries within five minutes like a cellulose and then the catalyst kicks in and the lacquer goes on to chemically cure to give a more durable coating. 90% of the curing process happens in the first seven days after application, making the lacquer very hard wearing, the remaining 10% of the process can take up to two weeks more to give maximum toughness, something you only need to consider if the lacquer is going to be subjected to extremely hard use.
Melamine Lacquer is designed to give a full gloss finish which will be achieved with a very careful application. It can be applied by brush (foam or bristle), cloth or by spraying. Where necessary, use cellulose thinners to dilute the product – especially helpful if working on a large area.
The gloss level of Melamine Lacquer can be increased by using burnishing cream once it has dried, and it can also be overcoated with friction polish (to increase the depth of the shine) or woodwax 22 or microcrystalline wax (for a more natural feel).
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This sanding sealer is designed to raise the grain and make it brittle, it can then be sanded of with fine grit abrasive paper leaving a smooth fine surface to apply finish. -
This creamy liquid has a very mild abrasive within it which acts like ‘liquid sandpaper’ on finished surfaces, cutting back and cleaning the finish and elevating it to a glossier, brighter finish. It can be used to smooth Cellulose Sanding Sealer prior to applying wax or Friction Polish, or, after allowing a suitable time to dry, on any of the lacquers, Friction Polish, Finishing Oil or Hard Wax Oil. A deep finish can be achieved using Burnishing Cream on a coat of Melamine Lacquer, then a coat of Friction Polish and finally the Burnishing Cream again. Use it sparingly so as not to over lubricate the surface and be sure to shake the bottle before use. It is not advisable to use a lacquer on top of a surface that has had Burnishing Cream used on it. -
Briwax Original is formulated with fast drying, stronger solvents which speed up drying, and also increase the cleaning ability of the wax slightly. This means that it will renovate older dirtier furniture and leave you with the deep grain enriching Briwax shine. Unsealed wooden surfaces should be smooth, dry and clean. Apply Briwax using a lint free cloth or 0000 Steel Wool, thoroughly working the wax into the grain. Once dry, buff to desired finish with a clean soft cloth. -
Confusingly, French Polish refers to a range of polishes (which would include Button Polish, White Polish, Garnet Polish etc) and also to a specific polish, French Polish. Chestnuts' French Polish is a traditional blend of solvent (methylated spirit) and a top quality unbleached shellac which is very similar to a Button Polish in colour. Applied either to bare timber or over a Shellac Sanding Sealer it is built up in many layers which have been described as being the thickness of a cigarette paper! French Polish gives the rich amber glow found on fine antique furniture and requires a very specific technique for application that is time consuming and laborious, but the final effect has to be seen to be believed and the satisfaction of achieving it is its own reward. A French Polish finish is not very hard wearing and is recommended for items that are going to be cared for. -
This amazing product is a cut and polish paste containing Tripoli powder, an ultra-fine abrasive. The polish is designed to be used in conjunction with Shellawax Cream and liquid formulations or as a finish in its own right on plastics (such as acrylic, resin-impregnated burr, crushed velvet, artificial ivory and similar products used for pen bodies). It can also be used after French polishing and restorers will find it useful to cut and revive previously polished surfaces. Although designed to be used directly on raw timber, bear in mind that EEE is not a finish in itself and the polished surface will need protecting by the use of some other product (such as Shellawax). EEE-Ultra Shine can be used over many other finishes such as oils and most types of varnish, enhancing the surface and giving it a smoothness and lustre with an ease that you would never have thought possible. -
Verdigris Wax is a multi-purpose coloured wax for creating striking effects on all types of interior material such as wood, metal, stone, plastic and plaster. Recommended as a special effects wax, it gives green hues of oxidised copper and brass and can be worked into moulding, bronzes, papier-mâché, alabaster and carvings. Ideal for decorating household objects, it buffs to a soft sheen, and can also be applied as a wax finish to bare or coloured wood. -
Organoils Hi-Speed Finishing Oils specifically formulated for on-lathe, under-turning-speed finishing. It is a heavy oil which can well deal with the load (fill) requirements of softwoods - you may choose to cut it (with vegetable turpentine) for denser hardwoods. One of its unique ingredients is the rare, Mustard Seed Oil (a well kept Aussie secret until now!) which gives the formulation good slip for the wet-sanding procedure and a silken touch to the finished result. -
A penetrative, nourishing, quality finishing oil which reflects the original, heavy-oil formulations that traditional Danish Oils were renowned for. As a clear finish will richly enhance the existing woodcolour/s. For best results, requires quality dry-sand surface preparation; using 600 /1200 / 1500 grit papers (the finer the better) Upon curing/drying (min. 14 days) makes for ideally prepared surface for further (optional) Waxing/Polishing. -
A low sheen finishing oil based on Tung Nut Oil, Beeswax, Citrus solvents and anti-fungal oils that penetrates the timber substrate to nourish, preserve and seal; as well as providing protection against weather degradation and rot. A natural alternative to petroleum hydrocarbons and water based oils -
If you’re looking for a clear finish that is tough, hardwearing and gives a bright gloss yet is still very easy to apply, even on larger areas, you’re in the right place.
Hard Wax Oil is a particular blend of tough oils combined with special waxes which dries to an exceptionally resilient finish. Ideal for anything that is going to be subjected to water splashes or a lot of handling this oil may not be indestructible but it will stand up to a lot of abuse.
It retains the ease of application typical of an oil and it stays wet long enough to get a smooth, even finish – even on large areas – but is touch dry and tack free in about 20 minutes, and better yet is ready for a second coat after about four hours (in normal conditions).
Hard Wax Oil will build to a bright gloss finish after 2-3 coats. Rub down lightly between coats with a fine abrasive. Once hard dry (allow at least 24 hours) it can be brought to an even brighter shine using either the buffing wheel system or burnishing cream.
For a not-quite-so-bright finish use a mild abrasive to reduce the gloss. For best results lubricate the abrasive with microcrystalline wax to retain the toughness of the oil.
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If you’re looking for a clear finish that is tough, hardwearing and gives a satin lustre yet is still very easy to apply, even on larger areas, you’re in the right place.
Hard Wax Oil is a particular blend of tough oils combined with special waxes which dries to an exceptionally resilient finish. Ideal for anything that is going to be subjected to water splashes or a lot of handling this oil may not be indestructible but it will stand up to a lot of abuse.
It retains the ease of application typical of an oil and it stays wet long enough to get a smooth, even finish – even on large areas – but is touch dry and tack free in about 20 minutes, and better yet is ready for a second coat after about four hours (in normal conditions).
Hard Wax Oil will build to a bright gloss finish after 2-3 coats. Rub down lightly between coats with a fine abrasive. Once hard dry (allow at least 24 hours) it can be brought to an even brighter shine using either the buffing wheel system or burnishing cream.
For a not-quite-so-bright finish use a mild abrasive to reduce the gloss. For best results lubricate the abrasive with microcrystalline wax to retain the toughness of the oil.
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Shellac Sanding Sealer is the traditional way of sealing timber prior to applying a polish or a wax.
Chestnuts version has a high percentage of real shellac which means it does the job extremely well, dissolved in an ethanol solution to make it easy to apply and quick drying.
Applied by cloth, brush or spray it dries in about 20 minutes, making it very popular for cabinet and architectural work as it is easy to keep a wet edge running. It is also popular with woodturners and highlights the natural grain of the timber extremely well.
Sand back lightly after application and apply Friction Polish, French Polish or any of Chestnuts waxes on top.
Conforms to EN71 Part 3 – suitable for toys and nursery furniture.
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Sold world-wide as probably the market leader in Friction polish. After sanding surface very smooth, seal with either Cellulose Sanding Sealer or Lacacote Wood Sanding Sealer (wiped on). -
Shellac Sealers are used in the French polishing trade either; as a quick drying finish to seal timber after staining; or as a basecoat for subsequent coats of French Polish. -
Although French polish is the general term for all types of Shellac Polish, it is also a product in its own right. Mylands range contains many blends of Shellac Polish which have been developed over the years to fulfil various different requirements – some of which are slightly modified products for a specific purpose. They come in various depths of colour, which give the French Polisher latitude to choose the most appropriate product for the timber being polished. Shellac products have a variety of uses from finishing antiques and reproduction furniture to acting as a barrier between two normally incompatible finishes. They are particularly useful when refurbishing furniture as they will seal in any wax product which may have been applied to the furniture in the past. -
Friction Polish is a shellac based polish ideal for creating a high gloss finish on or off the lathe. It’s a great decorative finish and is ideal for small items but can be difficult to apply to larger items on the lathe (over about 8 inch diameter). The high amount of shellac in Friction Polish does two main things. Firstly it helps seal bare wood and give it a great shine, which is good. Sadly the price of this commodity shot up a few years ago when the shellac crop failed and it never went back down, meaning that the cost of the polish has also risen sharply. Nevertheless, Friction Polish remains one of the most popular finishes for turners. It can be applied to bare wood but is normally used over a sealer and any of the sealers in the Chestnut Products range are suitable for this. Applied with the lathe running it dries almost instantly and builds to a deep, rich shine very quickly. Avoid using too much as this can cause ‘rings’ to appear on the surface. Friction Polish can be applied off the lathe with great success, using it like a French Polish and rubbing it into the surface. This does require a large amount of elbow grease (sadly not something we supply) but the end result is well worth the effort! -
Shellawax cream is a woodturners friction and buffing polish. Sharing many of the characteristics of Shellawax liquid, Shellawax Cream is specially formulated for use on larger turned projects where it would normally be impossible to get a first class finish using a conventional friction polish and on stand-alone articles such as carvings. As with Shellawax, only one application is required to completely finish the work. Made using a specially formulated hard shellac as a base, this excellent product gives a hard, durable finish, with impressive resistance to marks and blemishes from water, alcohol and heat. The cream formulation retards the frictional drying characteristic of friction polishes, making it suitable for use on larger lathe-turned items such as bowls and platters. Being a cream, this product is easily controlled in application and is very economical in use. Shellawax Cream is non-toxic. -
A one-application woodturners friction polish that really does work and is ideal for use on smaller spindle work such as pens and similar objects up to around 10 cm (4") diameter. This exceptional polish is made using a specially formulated hard shellac as a base to give a harder, more durable finish, giving greater resistance to marks and blemishes from water, alcohol and heat. Normally applied directly onto bare timber (though it can be used over most oils too – but test on scrap first) this polish dries almost instantly yet goes on hardening for up to three weeks resulting in a truly durable finish which far exceeds others on the market today. Once fully cured the finish is food-safe and non-toxic. -
This is an oil type finish similar to Danish oil but nothing like it. This product is designed to be hand rubbed on to raw timber, giving a finish with a hard, bright, high gloss. It will bring out amazing depth and brilliance to most timbers making the grain pop and become opalescent, vibrant, shimmering and alive. Especially when used on a fine grained, highly figure timber. And if that's not enough it does it all in a matter of minutes.
Aussie Oil is ideal for use on most small items like pendants, brooches, earrings, small turned items that cannot be fully finished on the lathe. Pens, magnifying glass handles, compacts, key rings, letter openers, in fact almost anything made of wood you can comfortably hold in your hand to polish.
As an extra added bonus, it also works brilliantly as a friction polish on the lathe.
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The ideal way to experiment with the different colours available to decide which ones you prefer, the Spirit Stain Kit contains one bottle (min. contents 25ml) of each of the nine colours. These are exactly the same stain as in the bigger bottles and will intermix if you want to vary the shades available.
The stains are very fade resistant, quick drying and non-grain raising. -
The ideal way to experiment with the different colours available to decide which ones you prefer, the Spirit Stain Kit contains one bottle (min. contents 25ml) of each of the twelve wood colours. These are exactly the same stain as in the bigger bottles and will intermix if you want to vary the shades available. The stains are very fade resistant, quick drying and non-grain raising. -
Two-part clear cold cure lacquer for use on wood, hardboard, cork and plastic laminates. Extremely good adhesion, resistant to heat, solvents and abrasion. Can be burnished to a mirror like gloss or rubbed down to a smooth, satin finish with steel wool and wax. An excellent finish for marquetry as it does not darken light coloured veneers and does not yellow or craze on ageing. Hard-dry within 2 hours of application. Plastic Coating conforms to The Articles in Contact with Food Regulations. -
Ever wished you had a finish that was as easy to use as shellac but with the durability of polyurethane? Well wish no more, because here it is.
This unique Hardened Shellac creates a film with a high resistance to heat, water and alcohol, yet it is used in exactly the same was as any normal shellac. It can be applied with a rubber as French polish, brushed, sprayed and dipped.
HOW IS THIS POSSIBLE? After shellac has been dissolved in ethanol* it is possible to introduce additives that cause the shellac to cross link after it has dried. This cross linking takes about 20 days to completely cure, less in hot weather.
USES: Ideal for table tops and other horizontal surfaces such as dresser and desk tops, etc. Also brilliant for use on guitars, lutes, harps and many other musical instruments where a traditional finish is required and good resonance qualities are essential.
NEW IMPROVED FORMULA In February 2009 U-beaut began adding a plasticiser to Hard Shellac. This gives elasticity to the cured finish, to combat crazing on the thin walls of musical instruments, whilst still having the same high resistance to marking from water, alcohol and heat it has always had.
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Shellawax Glow is darker than regular Shellawax (a deep honey to tan colour). It is made from a special blend of shellacs and is designed to give more depth and richness to highly figured timbers like fiddleback, birdseye, flame and quilted woods. It will also give more richness and a sense of depth to many other timbers.
Shellawax Glow is identical in use and all other respects to regular Shellawax. It is applied in the same way and has all the same properties. It can also be mixed with Shellawax Cream as an extender and thinner and can be used over EEE-Ultra Shine.
This polish may darken white woods ever so slightly, so it is a good idea to try it on a scrap piece first to make sure it doesn't darken more than you want.
USING SHELLAWAX CREAM AS A SHELLAWAX GLOW EXTENDER Shellawax Glow can be mixed with Shellawax Cream as an extender. This allows for better use of these products on large turned work and for hand rubbed work. For bowls over (6”) 150mm diam, mix the Cream and Shellawax Glow at the rate of approx 50/50 this will give you a runny cream that will stay on the surface longer and allow you more time to work it into the timber.
Use different mixing rates for various jobs 20% Cream to 80% Shellawax Glow for large platters etc up to 900mm (3’) diam and larger.
SHELLAWAX GLOW AS A THINNER Use Shellawax as a thinner for Shellawax Cream, which often thickens with use. This will also extend the life of the Cream. The slight colour difference will not effect the colour of Cream when used.
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While this resin has been manufactured to resist scratching and resistance to marking from heat sources we must stress this resin will still mark if sharp items are moved across the surface or hot items are placed on the surface.
As with all casting products, we stress that customers should purchase a small amount to perform initial tests to ensure suitability for their project and requirements.
Pigmentation Epoxy pigments are the recommended system to colour this resin however the polyester range of pigments will also work. Please read the Technical and Safety Data sheets prior to use. We recommend small scale testing to ensure compatibility before using at full scale. Cold Weather Notice Cooler temperatures in the UK and Ireland around mid-autumn to mid spring are not ideal conditions for water clear epoxy systems, this can increase the chances of crystallisation in the resin (this can occur at room temperature depending on circumstances, it is however much less common). Appearance can differ depending on the degree of crystallisation, from small lumps sitting on the surface to a hazy/milky white appearance, extreme cases the contents may completely solidify. Crystallisation occurs due to a phase change from liquid or solid similar to that of water turning to ice, fortunately it is easily reversed by warming the epoxy component to 60°c. Ensure any crystals are completely removed as remaining crystals can act as a seed causing the crystals to form again quite quickly. Lab results show the heating cycle to remove crystals can be repeated on multiple occasions before beginning to suffer from any losses in resin properties. We recommend keeping the resin system at a good room temperature at all times where possible, ensure to clean the lids and bottle necks of containers with isopropyl alcohol / acetone allowing the solvent to evaporate before replacing the lid.Product Data Units Mix Mix Ratio Weight 100 : 50 Hardness ShoreD 80 - 85 Viscosity (25°C) mPa.s 600 - 900 Density (25°C) g/cm3 1.09 – 1.13 Pot life (200g, 25°C) Mins 25 - 30 Cure Time (200g, 25°C) Hours 24 Full Cure (25°C) Days 7 Recommended Casting Thickness mm 1 - 5
