Finishes

  • Out of stock

    Shellawax Glow is darker than regular Shellawax (a deep honey to tan colour). It is made from a special blend of shellacs and is designed to give more depth and richness to highly figured timbers like fiddleback, birdseye, flame and quilted woods. It will also give more richness and a sense of depth to many other timbers.

    Shellawax Glow is identical in use and all other respects to regular Shellawax. It is applied in the same way and has all the same properties. It can also be mixed with Shellawax Cream as an extender and thinner and can be used over EEE-Ultra Shine.

    This polish may darken white woods ever so slightly, so it is a good idea to try it on a scrap piece first to make sure it doesn't darken more than you want.

    USING SHELLAWAX CREAM AS A SHELLAWAX GLOW EXTENDER Shellawax Glow can be mixed with Shellawax Cream as an extender. This allows for better use of these products on large turned work and for hand rubbed work. For bowls over (6”) 150mm diam, mix the Cream and Shellawax Glow at the rate of approx 50/50 this will give you a runny cream that will stay on the surface longer and allow you more time to work it into the timber.  

    Use different mixing rates for various jobs 20% Cream to 80% Shellawax Glow  for large platters etc up to 900mm (3’) diam and larger. 

    SHELLAWAX GLOW AS A THINNER Use Shellawax as a thinner for Shellawax Cream, which often thickens with use. This will also extend the life of the Cream. The slight colour difference will not effect the colour of Cream when used.

     
  • Shellawax cream is a woodturners friction and buffing polish. Sharing many of the characteristics of Shellawax liquid, Shellawax Cream is specially formulated for use on larger turned projects where it would normally be impossible to get a first class finish using a conventional friction polish and on stand-alone articles such as carvings.  As with Shellawax, only one application is required to completely finish the work.  Made using a specially formulated hard shellac as a base, this excellent product gives a hard, durable finish, with impressive resistance to marks and blemishes from water, alcohol and heat.  The cream formulation retards the frictional drying characteristic of friction polishes, making it suitable for use on larger lathe-turned items such as bowls and platters.  Being a cream, this product is easily controlled in application and is very economical in use.  Shellawax Cream is non-toxic.
  • A one-application woodturners friction polish that really does work and is ideal for use on smaller spindle work such as pens and similar objects up to around 10 cm (4") diameter.  This exceptional polish is made using a specially formulated hard shellac as a base to give a harder, more durable finish, giving greater resistance to marks and blemishes from water, alcohol and heat.  Normally applied directly onto bare timber (though it can be used over most oils too – but test on scrap first) this polish dries almost instantly yet goes on hardening for up to three weeks resulting in a truly durable finish which far exceeds others on the market today.  Once fully cured the finish is food-safe and non-toxic.
  • This is an oil type finish similar to Danish oil but nothing like it. This product is designed to be hand rubbed on to raw timber, giving a finish with a hard, bright, high gloss. It will bring out amazing depth and brilliance to most timbers making the grain pop and become opalescent, vibrant, shimmering and alive. Especially when used on a fine grained, highly figure timber. And if that's not enough it does it all in a matter of minutes.

    Aussie Oil is ideal for use on most small items like pendants, brooches, earrings, small turned items that cannot be fully finished on the lathe. Pens, magnifying glass handles, compacts, key rings, letter openers, in fact almost anything made of wood you can comfortably hold in your hand to polish.

    As an extra added bonus, it also works brilliantly as a friction polish on the lathe.

     
  • Organoils Hi-Speed Finishing Oils specifically formulated for on-lathe, under-turning-speed finishing. It is a heavy oil which can well deal with the load (fill) requirements of softwoods - you may choose to cut it (with vegetable turpentine) for denser hardwoods. One of its unique ingredients is the rare, Mustard Seed Oil (a well kept Aussie secret until now!) which gives the formulation good slip for the wet-sanding procedure and a silken touch to the finished result.
  • A penetrative, nourishing, quality finishing oil which reflects the original, heavy-oil formulations that traditional Danish Oils were renowned for. As a clear finish will richly enhance the existing woodcolour/s. For best results, requires quality dry-sand surface preparation; using 600 /1200 / 1500 grit papers (the finer the better) Upon curing/drying (min. 14 days) makes for ideally prepared surface for further (optional) Waxing/Polishing.
  • A refined Beeswax and Citrus Oil polish with pleasant aromatics and emulsified into a ready-to-use paste. For the palest, brightest cabinetry finish offered in our range; a double wax application and polish (min. 24 hours apart) to raw, fine-sanded woodwork would be recommended.
  • A low sheen finishing oil based on Tung Nut Oil, Beeswax, Citrus solvents and anti-fungal oils that penetrates the timber substrate to nourish, preserve and seal; as well as providing protection against weather degradation and rot. A natural alternative to petroleum hydrocarbons and water based oils
  • Mylands Blonde Dewaxed Shellac Flakes are used to produce a transparent, brown-coloured French Polish which is often used in antique restoration or the bespoke production of furniture. Easy to use, it is ideal for use on lighter coloured woods.  
  • Danish Oil is a specially formulated blend of natural and synthetic oils for use on wood products. A very durable penetrating oil suitable for both interior and exterior wood. Excellent heat and water resistance make this a very versatile finishing product.
  • Mylands wax polishes are manufactured from the finest natural ingredients including pure Beeswax and Carnuba wax. Mylands wax will help hide any surface scratches and produce a deep traditional sheen. On polished surfaces use sparingly and buff within a couple of minutes.
  • Sold world-wide as probably the market leader in Friction polish. After sanding surface very smooth, seal with either Cellulose Sanding Sealer or Lacacote Wood Sanding Sealer (wiped on).
  • Used for diluting French polish, Light Fast and Earth Stains, or cleaning surfaces and tools.
  • Shellac Sealers are used in the French polishing trade either; as a quick drying finish to seal timber after staining; or as a basecoat for subsequent coats of French Polish.
  • Although French polish is the general term for all types of Shellac Polish, it is also a product in its own right. Mylands range contains many blends of Shellac Polish which have been developed over the years to fulfil various different requirements – some of which are slightly modified products for a specific purpose. They come in various depths of colour, which give the French Polisher latitude to choose the most appropriate product for the timber being polished. Shellac products have a variety of uses from finishing antiques and reproduction furniture to acting as a barrier between two normally incompatible finishes. They are particularly useful when refurbishing furniture as they will seal in any wax product which may have been applied to the furniture in the past.
  • Use as a wipe on sealer (2 coats) prior to applying High Build Friction polish or Melamine Lacquer. Very quick drying (3-6 minutes).
  • This bleached knitted cotton cloth is ideal for applying and buffing most products; the slightly coarse texture ensures that the applied coating is spread thinly, which is always preferable. Not recommended for use on the lathe.
  • Tack Cloths are coated with a special, sticky resin. The resin doesn’t transfer off the cloth but when you wipe it across a surface it picks up and dust and removes it, leaving behind a clean surface ready for finishing. This makes it ideal for use after your final sanding to make sure that all of the sawdust generated is removed and doesn’t affect your finishing. Tack Cloths are supplied in a sealed wrapper; once opened store them in an air-tight container to prevent them from drying out. Do not use Tack Cloth with the lathe running.
  • The finest of Steel Wool, very low crumble and virtually oil free to ensure there is no contamination of your work. Use it after sanding with abrasive sheets to give an ultra smooth surface, or to apply waxes to smooth the timber whilst applying a thin coat. Steel Wool burns very quickly and easily; keep it away from sources of combustion (i.e. sparks etc). Always use a knife or scissors to cut Steel Wool
  • Safety Cloth is a thick, non-woven paper cloth. Designed to stay wet longer to assist the transfer of finishes to your chosen surface, it also tears very easily if it gets caught in revolving parts thus avoiding the danger of fingers being dragged into machinery. The texture of Safety Cloth ensures that a thin, even coat is applied and the thickness means that it retains it’s strength and the same piece can be used several times with the same finish. Safety Cloth is not a replacement for common sense and good safety practise.
  • Chestnut Nywebs

    £1.91£16.83
    NyWeb pads are a non-woven nylon webbing with an abrasive – either silicon carbide or aluminium oxide –  embedded into them to give an exactly defined cut.
    • The Green pads are 400 grit
    • The Red pads are 600 grit
    • The Orange pads are 1000 grit
    • The White pads do not contain an abrasive and are thus technically non-abrasive, but the very texture of the pads gives them an incredibly fine – but immeasurable – cut.
    NyWeb is long lasting and economical in use and extremely flexible, able to be moulded to pretty much any shape to get into all those awkward spaces and to not remove any sharp features. In use, as the web wears away, fresh abrasive is exposed to ensure a sharp cut every time. When NyWeb becomes clogged with dust simply beat it against a suitable surface or use a vacuum cleaner to remove the dust. NyWeb can be used wet or dry, and the Orange and White are particularly useful for the application of waxes, ensuring a smooth, even coat. Each pad is approx 15 x 21cm.
  • Chestnut Foam Brushes

    £3.76£5.28
    Made in the USA, these are the original and best quality Foam Brush. Manufactured using a special foam with a stiffener inside to make sure they keep their shape in use, and supplied with a solid wooden handle attached. Great for eliminating brush marks (no bristles = no brush marks) and there’s no danger of any stray bristles coming loose and spoiling your work. Priced to be semi-disposable they will normally wash out several times for re-use. Fantastic for applying acrylic finishes which have a tendency to froth up when applied by brush – the Foam Brush virtually eliminates this completely. Can also be used for painting, particularly gloss paints, seasoned users have been known to have a brush in each hand!
  • Chestnut Drill Polishing Brush has natural bristles that might seem a little harsh for polishing waxes but in fact are ideal for the task. Chestnut Drill Polishing Brush, which fits any electric drill or can also be used with the Buffing Wheel System, will give a higher gloss and more resilient finish to any waxed piece. In use, the bristles splay out in a mushroom shape, making this brush ideal for polishing spindles and cylinders. It can be used on flat surfaces but is prone to leave rings so the drum brush or  dome brush are recommended for this application. The stock of the brush is about 10cm and the bristles are 4cm long. If the bristles of the brush become clogged with wax simply wash it in warm soapy water and allow to dry before use.
  • All the items you need to use our Buffing System except the wheels – the perfect add-on when buying the Buffing Tree, the 8 inch wheels or the 4 inch wheels or the Dome Buffs The kit comprises of the Large Mandrel, the Small Mandrel, Compound 1, Compound 2, Carnauba Wax Stick. ALL OF THESE ITEMS ARE INCLUDED IN THE BUFFING WHEEL KIT.
  • Chestnut Mandrels

    £10.10£14.52
    These Mandrels are available separately or come as part of the buffing wheel kit. Both Mandrels are made in the UK and are zinc plated for maximum protection. Due to the limitations of plating a blind hole care should be taken to ensure the tapped thread of the large mandrel stays as dry as possible. The large mandrel is designed to be held in a lathe chuck. It is 25mm in diameter at its widest part, stepped to 18mm with an undercut for smaller chucks. It can be held on either, both will still give plenty of clearance from the chuck. The small mandrel is designed to be held in a jacobs chuck or similar and is especially suited to use with the smaller 4 inch wheels and the Dome Buffs.
  • These cotton wheels come  complete with the fixings needed to attach them to the mandrels in the Buffing System. Use Wheel A with Compound 1 for a preparatory cutback Use Wheel B with Compound 2 for an ultra fine surface prior to waxing Use Wheel C with Carnauba Wax Stick, Microcrystalline Wax or Microcrystalline Wax Stick.
  • These compounds are designed to co-ordinate with the cloth used in the Buffing Wheels and Dome Buffs to give an exceptional cut and prepare the surface to a very smooth finish prior to using wax. Compound 1 -the brown one – (sometimes referred to as tripoli) is used with the ‘A’ Wheel/Dome to help smooth the applied finish. Avoid overloading the wheel/dome where possible to prevent a build up of the compound. If this happens it can be removed by either washing in soapy water or abrading the edge of the wheel with a coarse abrasive. Do not use on very open grained light coloured timber as the compound can get lodged in the grain and colour the piece. Compound 2 – the white one – (sometimes referred to as white diamond) acts as a cleanser to remove any traces of Compound 1 left on the surface (but not from the grain) and also has a very fine abrasive contained in it which smooths the work, leaving a semi-gloss finish and a superb foundation for the top coat of wax. Use Compound 2 sparingly, too much on the wheel will result in smears on the surface of your work which can be removed with buffing but this can be very time consuming and frustrating. It’s always best to apply a little and add more if needed.
  • This kit gets you started on the road to buffing – all you need to supply is the lathe, a chuck and something to buff! Inside the kit you get the mandrels for holding the Buffing Wheels in the chuck.  One of each buffing wheel (A, B and C) are included in the 8 inch size, complete with all the fixings attached to fit into the Mandrels. A bar of each of the compounds is included to get you started, these will last a long time so no need to worry about getting spares yet (although all of the items in the kit are available separately when you need to get them). Next is a stick of carnauba wax  for that final gloss finish. Last but not least is a full set of instructions on how to use the kit to get the best from it.
  • These unstitched, cotton mops are ideal for polishing the insides of bowls and boxes etc to achieve the same great finish on the inside as on the outside when using the Buffing Wheel kit, without the fear of the item being snatched from your hands by the larger Buffing Wheels. All of the domes share the same thread as in the large mandrel and the small mandrel so all parts are completely interchangeable. Due to the smaller size of these dome buffs they will require more time and sometimes more speed on the lathe to be able to match the finish given by the larger wheels. Dome Buff A is used with compound 1 to cut back the applied finish and remove any minor blemishes left behind by sanding. Dome Buff B is used with Compound 2 to cleanse the piece and also to prepare for the final polish coat by giving an exceptionally smooth surface. Dome Buff C is used with either the Carnauba wax stick, microcrystalline wax or Microcrystalline Wax Stick to give a wonderful, long lasting shine.
  • The Buffing Tree comprises of three 6 inch wheels, in the A, B and C cloth grades, firmly held on a central spindle. It’s ideal for buffing small items and, after loading the wheels with the compounds and wax, allows you to move from one wheel to the next in quick succession, dramatically reducing the time otherwise taken up by changing wheels. Ideal for polishing small items such as fruit, pens, boxes etc in batches. Requires one of our mandrels to fix to the chuck and a live centre for support at the tailstock. PLEASE NOTE: The Buffing Tree does not come as kit containing the mandrels and compounds etc; this is deliberate as if you already use the Buffing System you will have these and won’t want to buy them again. If you do not have these items they are available to purchase separately or as a pack in the Buffing Accessory Pack.
  • Gilt Creams are a creamy, waxy paste with metallic flakes and pigments in them, giving a rich, lustrous finish to whatever they are applied to. The can be used for a ‘limed’ effect over a lacquer to give a high contrast effect, or uniformly over a piece and polished to a bright shine once dried. Available in
    • Gold
    • Silver
    • Copper                                                                                                                                                                                                                          
  • End Seal is an emulsified paraffin wax used the seal the ends of freshly cut timber to slow down the drying process and reduce the risk of the timber splitting. It can also be used on work-in-progress that is being left unfinished where there is a risk of the timber splitting. Apply it liberally, normally by brush but it can be sprayed if needed, usually to the smallest surface of the timber which will normally be the end grain where moisture is most likely to escape from. Sealing the surface will encourage the moisture to escape via the larger areas which will result in a slower exit.

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