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These Mandrels are available separately or come as part of the buffing wheel kit. Both Mandrels are made in the UK and are zinc plated for maximum protection. Due to the limitations of plating a blind hole care should be taken to ensure the tapped thread of the large mandrel stays as dry as possible. The large mandrel is designed to be held in a lathe chuck. It is 25mm in diameter at its widest part, stepped to 18mm with an undercut for smaller chucks. It can be held on either, both will still give plenty of clearance from the chuck. The small mandrel is designed to be held in a jacobs chuck or similar and is especially suited to use with the smaller 4 inch wheels and the Dome Buffs.
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All the items you need to use our Buffing System except the wheels – the perfect add-on when buying the Buffing Tree, the 8 inch wheels or the 4 inch wheels or the Dome Buffs The kit comprises of the Large Mandrel, the Small Mandrel, Compound 1, Compound 2, Carnauba Wax Stick. ALL OF THESE ITEMS ARE INCLUDED IN THE BUFFING WHEEL KIT.
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Chestnut Drill Polishing Brush has natural bristles that might seem a little harsh for polishing waxes but in fact are ideal for the task. Chestnut Drill Polishing Brush, which fits any electric drill or can also be used with the Buffing Wheel System, will give a higher gloss and more resilient finish to any waxed piece. In use, the bristles splay out in a mushroom shape, making this brush ideal for polishing spindles and cylinders. It can be used on flat surfaces but is prone to leave rings so the drum brush or dome brush are recommended for this application. The stock of the brush is about 10cm and the bristles are 4cm long. If the bristles of the brush become clogged with wax simply wash it in warm soapy water and allow to dry before use.
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Made in the USA, these are the original and best quality Foam Brush. Manufactured using a special foam with a stiffener inside to make sure they keep their shape in use, and supplied with a solid wooden handle attached. Great for eliminating brush marks (no bristles = no brush marks) and there’s no danger of any stray bristles coming loose and spoiling your work. Priced to be semi-disposable they will normally wash out several times for re-use. Fantastic for applying acrylic finishes which have a tendency to froth up when applied by brush – the Foam Brush virtually eliminates this completely. Can also be used for painting, particularly gloss paints, seasoned users have been known to have a brush in each hand!
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NyWeb pads are a non-woven nylon webbing with an abrasive – either silicon carbide or aluminium oxide – embedded into them to give an exactly defined cut.
- The Green pads are 400 grit
- The Red pads are 600 grit
- The Orange pads are 1000 grit
- The White pads do not contain an abrasive and are thus technically non-abrasive, but the very texture of the pads gives them an incredibly fine – but immeasurable – cut.
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Safety Cloth is a thick, non-woven paper cloth. Designed to stay wet longer to assist the transfer of finishes to your chosen surface, it also tears very easily if it gets caught in revolving parts thus avoiding the danger of fingers being dragged into machinery. The texture of Safety Cloth ensures that a thin, even coat is applied and the thickness means that it retains it’s strength and the same piece can be used several times with the same finish. Safety Cloth is not a replacement for common sense and good safety practise.
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The finest of Steel Wool, very low crumble and virtually oil free to ensure there is no contamination of your work. Use it after sanding with abrasive sheets to give an ultra smooth surface, or to apply waxes to smooth the timber whilst applying a thin coat. Steel Wool burns very quickly and easily; keep it away from sources of combustion (i.e. sparks etc). Always use a knife or scissors to cut Steel Wool
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Tack Cloths are coated with a special, sticky resin. The resin doesn’t transfer off the cloth but when you wipe it across a surface it picks up and dust and removes it, leaving behind a clean surface ready for finishing. This makes it ideal for use after your final sanding to make sure that all of the sawdust generated is removed and doesn’t affect your finishing. Tack Cloths are supplied in a sealed wrapper; once opened store them in an air-tight container to prevent them from drying out. Do not use Tack Cloth with the lathe running.
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These beautiful micaceous-based colours are for artists and crafters who wish to add a touch of glamour or glitter to a piece, such as the translucent glow of an angel's wings, a butterfly, a fish or the brilliant iridescent shimmer on a mallard drake's neck. Simply mix the iridescent colours directly into your paints or apply after decorating to highlight specific areas. The choice is yours. For best use when using the Iridescent paints in an Airbrush, looks well on an ebonised background.
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Although French polish is the general term for all types of Shellac Polish, it is also a product in its own right. Mylands range contains many blends of Shellac Polish which have been developed over the years to fulfil various different requirements – some of which are slightly modified products for a specific purpose. They come in various depths of colour, which give the French Polisher latitude to choose the most appropriate product for the timber being polished. Shellac products have a variety of uses from finishing antiques and reproduction furniture to acting as a barrier between two normally incompatible finishes. They are particularly useful when refurbishing furniture as they will seal in any wax product which may have been applied to the furniture in the past.
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A low sheen finishing oil based on Tung Nut Oil, Beeswax, Citrus solvents and anti-fungal oils that penetrates the timber substrate to nourish, preserve and seal; as well as providing protection against weather degradation and rot. A natural alternative to petroleum hydrocarbons and water based oils
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A penetrative, nourishing, quality finishing oil which reflects the original, heavy-oil formulations that traditional Danish Oils were renowned for. As a clear finish will richly enhance the existing woodcolour/s. For best results, requires quality dry-sand surface preparation; using 600 /1200 / 1500 grit papers (the finer the better) Upon curing/drying (min. 14 days) makes for ideally prepared surface for further (optional) Waxing/Polishing.
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Organoils Hi-Speed Finishing Oils specifically formulated for on-lathe, under-turning-speed finishing. It is a heavy oil which can well deal with the load (fill) requirements of softwoods - you may choose to cut it (with vegetable turpentine) for denser hardwoods. One of its unique ingredients is the rare, Mustard Seed Oil (a well kept Aussie secret until now!) which gives the formulation good slip for the wet-sanding procedure and a silken touch to the finished result.
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This is an oil type finish similar to Danish oil but nothing like it. This product is designed to be hand rubbed on to raw timber, giving a finish with a hard, bright, high gloss. It will bring out amazing depth and brilliance to most timbers making the grain pop and become opalescent, vibrant, shimmering and alive. Especially when used on a fine grained, highly figure timber. And if that's not enough it does it all in a matter of minutes.
Aussie Oil is ideal for use on most small items like pendants, brooches, earrings, small turned items that cannot be fully finished on the lathe. Pens, magnifying glass handles, compacts, key rings, letter openers, in fact almost anything made of wood you can comfortably hold in your hand to polish.
As an extra added bonus, it also works brilliantly as a friction polish on the lathe.
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A one-application woodturners friction polish that really does work and is ideal for use on smaller spindle work such as pens and similar objects up to around 10 cm (4") diameter. This exceptional polish is made using a specially formulated hard shellac as a base to give a harder, more durable finish, giving greater resistance to marks and blemishes from water, alcohol and heat. Normally applied directly onto bare timber (though it can be used over most oils too – but test on scrap first) this polish dries almost instantly yet goes on hardening for up to three weeks resulting in a truly durable finish which far exceeds others on the market today. Once fully cured the finish is food-safe and non-toxic.
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Shellawax cream is a woodturners friction and buffing polish. Sharing many of the characteristics of Shellawax liquid, Shellawax Cream is specially formulated for use on larger turned projects where it would normally be impossible to get a first class finish using a conventional friction polish and on stand-alone articles such as carvings. As with Shellawax, only one application is required to completely finish the work. Made using a specially formulated hard shellac as a base, this excellent product gives a hard, durable finish, with impressive resistance to marks and blemishes from water, alcohol and heat. The cream formulation retards the frictional drying characteristic of friction polishes, making it suitable for use on larger lathe-turned items such as bowls and platters. Being a cream, this product is easily controlled in application and is very economical in use. Shellawax Cream is non-toxic.
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Shellawax Glow is darker than regular Shellawax (a deep honey to tan colour). It is made from a special blend of shellacs and is designed to give more depth and richness to highly figured timbers like fiddleback, birdseye, flame and quilted woods. It will also give more richness and a sense of depth to many other timbers.
Shellawax Glow is identical in use and all other respects to regular Shellawax. It is applied in the same way and has all the same properties. It can also be mixed with Shellawax Cream as an extender and thinner and can be used over EEE-Ultra Shine.
This polish may darken white woods ever so slightly, so it is a good idea to try it on a scrap piece first to make sure it doesn't darken more than you want.
USING SHELLAWAX CREAM AS A SHELLAWAX GLOW EXTENDER Shellawax Glow can be mixed with Shellawax Cream as an extender. This allows for better use of these products on large turned work and for hand rubbed work. For bowls over (6”) 150mm diam, mix the Cream and Shellawax Glow at the rate of approx 50/50 this will give you a runny cream that will stay on the surface longer and allow you more time to work it into the timber.
Use different mixing rates for various jobs 20% Cream to 80% Shellawax Glow for large platters etc up to 900mm (3’) diam and larger.
SHELLAWAX GLOW AS A THINNER Use Shellawax as a thinner for Shellawax Cream, which often thickens with use. This will also extend the life of the Cream. The slight colour difference will not effect the colour of Cream when used.
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This amazing product is a cut and polish paste containing Tripoli powder, an ultra-fine abrasive. The polish is designed to be used in conjunction with Shellawax Cream and liquid formulations or as a finish in its own right on plastics (such as acrylic, resin-impregnated burr, crushed velvet, artificial ivory and similar products used for pen bodies). It can also be used after French polishing and restorers will find it useful to cut and revive previously polished surfaces. Although designed to be used directly on raw timber, bear in mind that EEE is not a finish in itself and the polished surface will need protecting by the use of some other product (such as Shellawax). EEE-Ultra Shine can be used over many other finishes such as oils and most types of varnish, enhancing the surface and giving it a smoothness and lustre with an ease that you would never have thought possible.
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Ever wished you had a finish that was as easy to use as shellac but with the durability of polyurethane? Well wish no more, because here it is.
This unique Hardened Shellac creates a film with a high resistance to heat, water and alcohol, yet it is used in exactly the same was as any normal shellac. It can be applied with a rubber as French polish, brushed, sprayed and dipped.
HOW IS THIS POSSIBLE? After shellac has been dissolved in ethanol* it is possible to introduce additives that cause the shellac to cross link after it has dried. This cross linking takes about 20 days to completely cure, less in hot weather.
USES: Ideal for table tops and other horizontal surfaces such as dresser and desk tops, etc. Also brilliant for use on guitars, lutes, harps and many other musical instruments where a traditional finish is required and good resonance qualities are essential.
NEW IMPROVED FORMULA In February 2009 U-beaut began adding a plasticiser to Hard Shellac. This gives elasticity to the cured finish, to combat crazing on the thin walls of musical instruments, whilst still having the same high resistance to marking from water, alcohol and heat it has always had.
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Out of stockIncludes 1 x 72 arbor. Spare pads. 20 each x 75mm indasa Velcro discs in grits, 120,180,240,320,400 & 600G