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These Dispensing Nozzles are, in fact, almost indispensable! They fit onto any of Chestnuts' plastic bottles in the 250ml, 500ml and 1 ltr sizes, simply replacing the existing cap. Cut the tip off to the size you want and use the handy cover to reseal them when not in use. A useful by product of using these is that if you knock a bottle over the amount you lose through the small nozzle will be much less than without it. Just don’t forget to take the nozzle off the bottle before you throw it away so that you can re-use it! These nozzles are not child resistant, the correct closure should be replaced when the product is not in use.

Woodturners stick wax is a mixture of beeswax and carnauba wax it is slightly softer than the Carnauba Wax Stick and therefore slightly easier to apply and there are no concerns about it marking softer woods. Applied over a sanding sealer, simply hold the stick against the revolving work and allow the heat generated to melt the wax onto the wood. Buff up straight away using Safety Cloth, using the cloth to ensure an even coating.

When you need to protect your work but don’t want an overpowering shine on it, Acrylic Satin Lacquer is an ideal choice. With the benefit of an easy aerosol application, especially useful on awkward shapes, this is a hard wearing water based lacquer that will protect whatever it’s put onto, leaving an attractive satin sheen. Acrylic Satin Lacquer is touch dry and dust free in about five minutes and hard dry about 20 minutes, ready for a second coat if needed after a light cut back with a fine abrasive. For best results it should be used over either Cellulose Sanding Sealer or the Acrylic Sanding Sealer aerosol. If you have a change of heart on the finish the lacquer can be brought to a gloss by using either Burnishing Cream or the Buffing Wheel Kit. Or you can simply apply a coat of Acrylic Gloss Lacquer!

Getting a good base for your finishing is essential when you want to get a great finish. Sometimes the piece you’re working on makes that more difficult due to its shape or size or for many other reasons. Or sometimes you just want a quicker, cleaner method of applying a sealer. That’s where Cellulose Sanding Sealer in an aerosol comes into its own. Basically the same product as in the tin, it has all the same benefits of quick drying and universal compatibility, it also has the added advantage of being easier both to apply and to get an even coating. Use it before applying waxes, lacquers and polishes for a more durable final finish.

It’s important to use a sanding sealer on most items; it gives a good foundation to your piece and can help the next coat to adhere properly to the timber. Chestnut Acrylic Sanding Sealer does this perfectly and is designed to be used with Acrylic Gloss Lacquer, Acrylic Satin Lacquer, Ebonising Lacquer, any of their polishes and any of their waxes. Supplied in an easy to use aerosol the dried coating complies with the EN71 Part 3 regulations governing toys and nursery furniture. Once dried lightly sand back prior to applying your top coat.

Chestnut Products’ Microcrystalline Wax is a blend of high quality waxes rich in microcrystalline wax – a wax derived from the petroleum refining process and known for the fineness of its crystals. This is mixed with a special solvent to create a firm wax which, when dry, knits down to form a very dense coating making it very water resistant, meaning that it is ideal for any items that are likely to come into contact with water for short periods of time. Microcrystalline waxes also have a higher melting point than other waxes traditionally used to make polishing waxes, the benefit of which is that repeated handling of items finished in Microcrystalline Wax won’t finger mark in the same way, as the melting point is higher than normal body temperature. Microcrystalline Wax should be used over one of the Chestnut Products’ sanding sealers and allowed to dry (about 20 minutes) before buffing to a shine. For best results apply a very thin coat, spreading the wax evenly over the entire surface. Microcrystalline Wax can also be used on the buffing wheel system. In this situation use the A and B Wheel as normal, then apply the Microcrystalline Wax to the item you are polishing. Allow 20 minutes for the wax to dry then buff and normal using the C Wheel. You can use the same C Wheel for both Microcrystalline Wax  and the Carnuaba Wax Stick.  Microcrystalline Wax has been tested to the EN71 Part 3 regulations regarding coatings used on toys.

WoodWax 22 contains beeswax (for shine) and carnauba wax (for hardness). Blended together in a solvent to produce a soft creamy paste. This makes it very easy to apply over any surface. WoodWax 22 is quick drying enough to be applied onto unsealed wood but works best on one of Chestnuts sanding sealers. If working on the lathe the wax should be applied with the lathe stopped. Apply using a cloth (Safety Cloth or Stockinette works well with this); the wax spreads easily over the surface, after about 20 seconds it starts to drag slightly. This means it is ready to buff up; if you haven’t covered the whole piece by then don’t worry, just take a little more wax from the tin and carry on applying, the wax won’t mind waiting! It’s best to buff WoodWax 22 as soon as you can; that way any surplus wax that might have been applied will be removed, allowing the shine to really show through. If working on the lathe Safety Cloth should be used for the buffing process and let the lathe do the work for you. Off the lathe Safety Cloth or Stockinette can be used. A second or even third coat of wax can be applied if required, leaving about twenty minutes between coats. After three coats the finish can become softer and will mark very easily.

This creamy liquid has a very mild abrasive within it which acts like ‘liquid sandpaper’ on finished surfaces, cutting back and cleaning the finish and elevating it to a glossier, brighter finish. It can be used to smooth Cellulose Sanding Sealer prior to applying wax or Friction Polish, or, after allowing a suitable time to dry, on any of the lacquers, Friction Polish, Finishing Oil or Hard Wax Oil. A deep finish can be achieved using Burnishing Cream on a coat of Melamine Lacquer, then a coat of Friction Polish and finally the Burnishing Cream again. Use it sparingly so as not to over lubricate the surface and be sure to shake the bottle before use. It is not advisable to use a lacquer on top of a surface that has had Burnishing Cream used on it.

If you’re looking for a finish that won’t change the colour of your timber, won’t overpower the natural beauty of the wood with a high gloss but will still protect the timber and smell nice, well, you’re in the right place! Lemon Oil is a clear, low build finish. By that we mean that it’s a very thin liquid with a very low solids content, so no matter how much you apply it’s not going to build up to a discernible visible film on the surface. Instead it soaks in and seals the surface, offering a level of water resistance and protection against handling. Normally applied with a brush or a cloth it’s very  easy to use and covers well and doesn’t usually show overlaps, so it’s ideal for large areas which often look better without a high gloss. And as you might expect, it has a pleasant lemon aroma too, although this does fade after a while.

Tung Oil, or Chinese Wood Oil as it’s sometimes called, is a natural oil derived from the seed of the nut of the tung tree. The jury is out as to whether it can spark a nut allergy. Tung Oil air dries to form a tough, hard film that has a fairly strong amber tint. Because it doesn’t have any solvent or driers in it it can take a while to dry, and dependant on conditions this can be up to a week although 48 hours is more common. As with most finishes a thinner coat will dry quicker. Normally applied with a brush or cloth.

Chestnut Finishing Oil is Chestnuts' version of Danish Oil* and uses Tung Oil as its base but with the addition of solvents and driers. This aids the drying of the product and speeds it up dramatically, so that it’s dry within eight hours. It has a pale amber colour and dries to a hard yet flexible film which is very hardwearing and water resistant. For a high gloss finish apply several coats with a light rub down between coats; after 5 or 6 coats a good sheen should be visible. Finishing Oil is normally applied by cloth but on larger areas a brush can be used very successfully.

This water based sanding sealer gets the job done without the smell associated with solvent based sealers and also with no flammability issues – ideal for asthma suffers and anyone with an aversion to solvent based finishes. Applied by cloth, brush or spray (Chestnuts' foam brushes are especially good with this) the sealer dries in about 5 minutes and can be overcoated with most compatible finishes after about 20 minutes although two hours should be left if using Acrylic Lacquer. Acrylic Sanding Sealer sands easily with a fine abrasive and is supplied ready for use.