- Fine control of heat and precise handling of the burning head, variable heat, up to 1100º C.
- The pen (for handpiece) has a cool running and lightweight handle which remains comfortable even after many hours of use.
- Writes quickly and as fluently as a fountain pen.
- Cost effective replacement points.
- The ability to shape your own points from specialist wire with the supplied fine wire, perfect for fine detailed burning. Thicker wire is available, ideal for enhancing bird or stick carving.
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Features: -
- Designed for use with the Peter Child Pyrography machine: two pen flexibility at the flick of a switch.
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- Make points to your shape and design using wire cutters and pliers. One reel can make in excess of 150 points. Hammered flat, they can be used as a blade for burning feathers, grass or fur, or file the wire to a needle point for minute detail.
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Made from Nickel Chromium wire and with normal use will last many years. -
Llewellyn Ryland Polyester Pigment are coloured liquid/paste mediums based on pigments dispersed within a solvent-free reactive unsaturated polyester resin. They are available in a wide range of colours varying in strength and consistency depending upon the particular colouring application. They have been developed to blend easily into resin systems. The range of colours is based upon pigments carefully selected for colour fastness, opacity, heat stability and having minimum effect upon the curing characteristics of the final system. The resin used with the Polyester Colour Paste is a specially developed solvent-free reactive polyester resin which chemically cross links with the moulding resin so that the colour is "locked in" once the system has cured. They can be used to colour most polyester resin based systems used within the composites or related industry. These Polyester Colour Pastes have excellent stability. -
Milliput Epoxy Putty, the two sticks have a long shelf life but once mixed the resultant putty is at first soft and highly adhesive and then gradually hardens. Speed of hardening is dependant on temperature and at normal temperatures (20-25ºC) Milliput becomes rock hard in three to four hours. By the application of heat the setting time can be reduced to a few minutes. After setting hard Milliput continues to cure and is fully cured after an elapse of time equal to the setting time at the same temperature. Once fully cured Milliput can be machined, drilled, tapped, turned, filed, sawn, sandpapered and painted. Milliput can be sandpapered and painted immediately it has set. (it is advisable to wear eye protection during this process). Milliput is an excellent adhesive and will bond any of the following to itself or to any of the others - wood, brick, cement, metals, concrete, plastics, glass etc, but note that Milliput is not intended as a thin layer adhesive and should not be used where a paste, mucilage or thin glue is indicated. Milliput will set under water and is heat resistant up to 130°C. Shelf Life: Recommended that Milliput is stored in cool, dry conditions. Please reseal bags after use. Stored correctly this product should remain workable for about 2 years. Available in six colours: Standard (Yellow/Grey), Terracotta, Silver Grey, Black, Superfine White and Turquoise Blue. -
Super thin penetrating formula, bonds in 1 - 5 seconds. -
Allows 7 - 10 seconds for positioning, cures in 20 seconds. -
Very high viscosity formula, super thick and super strong. Allows approximately 30 - 40 seconds for positioning. Cures in 90 seconds, ideal for gap filling. Use zip kicker to accelerate cure time. -
Accelerates Super Glue cure time. Best working accelerator for ZAP. Sets in just a few seconds. -
Interior and exterior use, strong initial tack with fast setting. Excellent sandability, unaffected by finishes. FDA approved for indirect food contact and easy to clean away with water. Open time 5 minutes, assembly time 10-15 minutes, shelf life 12 months (kept airtight). -
The Sandmaster is an essential part of every turner's tool kit. It comes with 5 different grits of abrasive to take even the roughest projects to a glass-like finish every time. It avoids an uneven finish often associated with hand sanding and there is no danger of catching hands on the revolving project. There is little or no surface damage/head build-up, as there is with power sanding and there is no cable to trip over. Head articulates to access even the most difficult areas. Sponge head is ideal for working in tight spaces. Sandmaster creates a fraction of the dust generated by power sanding. It can be adapted to take a polishing mop. -
1" x 20' abrasive in a convenient dispenser. Perfect for spindle, pen, or any turning where small strips are needed. This convenient dispenser is loaded with four or 1" x 20' rolls of cloth backed aluminum oxide abrasive. Each dispenser pack contains one roll of 150, 240, 320 & 400 grit abrasive. Just pull out and tear off the length of abrasive strip you need. -
1" x 20' abrasive in a convenient dispenser. Perfect for spindle, pen, or any turning where small strips are needed. This convenient dispenser is loaded with five 1" x 20' rolls of cloth backed aluminum oxide abrasive. Each dispenser pack contains one roll of 150, 240, 320, 400 & 600 grit abrasive. Just pull out and tear off the length of abrasive strip you need. -
2" wide cloth backed abrasive available in six grits, 80G, 120G, 180G, 240G, 320G & 400G. -
2" wide cloth backed abrasive available in six grits, 80G, 120G, 180G, 240G, 320G & 400G.
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Velcro backed 6" (150mm) wide rolls x 1/2 metre of each of the following grits: 120G, 180G, 240G, 320G, 400G & 600G -
Velcro backed 6" (150mm) wide rolls x 1 metre in 9 grits, 80G, 120G, 180G, 240G, 320G, 400G, 600G, 800G & 1200G
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Fine finish starts with good preparation! Use these mildly abrasive pads after sanding for a final smoothing process to give a near-perfect surface prior to applying any finish. Very long lasting, these pads are also very flexible and do not crumble, thus avoiding contamination of your work. -
Fine finishing starts with good preparation! Use these mildly abrasive pads after sanding for that final smoothing process to give a near-perfect surface prior to applying any finish. Very long lasting, these pads are also very flexible and do not crumble, thus avoiding any fear of contamination of your work. Exercise care when using these pads with the lathe revolving.
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Designed specifically with pen turners in mind. This finishing kit consists of nine different, colour coded, foam backed sanding pads measuring 10cm (4") x 8.5cm (3.1/4"). Includes the following grit sizes: 1500 - Rust 1800 - Green 2400 - Black 3200 - Tan 3600 - Wine/Brown 4000 - Teal 6000 - Purple 8000 - Royal Blue 12000 - Grey Suitable for wood and acrylic blanks . -
This water based sanding sealer gets the job done without the smell associated with solvent based sealers and also with no flammability issues – ideal for asthma suffers and anyone with an aversion to solvent based finishes.
Applied by cloth, brush or spray (Chestnuts' foam brushes are especially good with this) the sealer dries in about 5 minutes and can be overcoated with most compatible finishes after about 20 minutes although two hours should be left if using Acrylic Lacquer.
Acrylic Sanding Sealer sands easily with a fine abrasive and is supplied ready for use.
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Good finishing requires a good foundation, and Cellulose Sanding Sealer is probably the best way of providing one. Compatible with everything in the Chestnut Products range that benefits from the use of a sanding sealer (which is pretty much everything apart from oil finishes!) it is superbly universal.
The purpose of a sanding sealer is manifold.
- It seals the open pores of the timber prior to the application of the next coat, meaning that more of it stays on the surface and less of the finish is needed. Not only does this make it economical, when finishing the thinner the applied coat the less likely it is to get damaged, so a sanding sealer will help the top coats be more resilient.
- Sanding Sealers also bind the loose fibres of the timber together giving a more solid foundation for the next coat, which helps make sure the final finish is able to adhere properly and thus be more durable.
- They also include a sanding agent which acts as a lubricant to make the sanding process easier – the sanding agent also stands slightly proud of the surface of the sealer and it is this that is denibbed – the sealer itself should still be intact after sanding.
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This pure cellulose solvent is a high quality dilutant for our cellulose based products, such as Cellulose Sanding Sealer and Melamine Lacquer. Thinning these products can help to make them easier to apply, especially over larger areas as it helps them flow out. Cellulose Thinners is also useful for cleaning any spills you may have in the workshop and is strong enough to help clean most things, taking care to ensure that it does not attack It can also be used to thin Spirit Stain to give a delicate wash effects, although spirit thinners is the better option for this. -
Shellac Sanding Sealer is the traditional way of sealing timber prior to applying a polish or a wax.
Chestnuts version has a high percentage of real shellac which means it does the job extremely well, dissolved in an ethanol solution to make it easy to apply and quick drying.
Applied by cloth, brush or spray it dries in about 20 minutes, making it very popular for cabinet and architectural work as it is easy to keep a wet edge running. It is also popular with woodturners and highlights the natural grain of the timber extremely well.
Sand back lightly after application and apply Friction Polish, French Polish or any of Chestnuts waxes on top.
Conforms to EN71 Part 3 – suitable for toys and nursery furniture.
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This clear, slower drying solvent is primarily for thinning our Spirit Stain to give delicate wash effects without affecting the colour (as methylated spirit would). It can also be used to dilute Friction Polish or French Polish if needed (usually only when the cap has been left off and the product has thickened up). It’s also suitable for use in making french polish if you want to dissolve shellac flakes in it. -
Food Safe Finish is a clear, food grade mineral oil. Chestnut use a thin grade of oil to allow it to soak into bare timber which then protects it against water splashes etc whilst not tainting or affecting the food in any way. It dries to a fairly matt finish; it is however ideal to use for wet sanding and when used with a very fine abrasive it can give an exceptionally smooth surface which has its own gentle glow. Apply with a clean cloth or brush direct onto bare wood, up to three coats are recommended. If the oil sits on the surface and won’t soak in it means the timber has absorbed as much as it can and no further coats are needed. Any surplus can be removed with a clean cloth if required. Depending on the way the item is used it might be necessary to top-up the finish, especially if it is washed regularly. -
Chestnut Finishing Oil is Chestnuts' version of Danish Oil* and uses Tung Oil as its base but with the addition of solvents and driers. This aids the drying of the product and speeds it up dramatically, so that it’s dry within eight hours. It has a pale amber colour and dries to a hard yet flexible film which is very hardwearing and water resistant.
For a high gloss finish apply several coats with a light rub down between coats; after 5 or 6 coats a good sheen should be visible.
Finishing Oil is normally applied by cloth but on larger areas a brush can be used very successfully.
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Tung Oil, or Chinese Wood Oil as it’s sometimes called, is a natural oil derived from the seed of the nut of the tung tree. The jury is out as to whether it can spark a nut allergy. Tung Oil air dries to form a tough, hard film that has a fairly strong amber tint. Because it doesn’t have any solvent or driers in it it can take a while to dry, and dependant on conditions this can be up to a week although 48 hours is more common. As with most finishes a thinner coat will dry quicker. Normally applied with a brush or cloth. -
If you’re looking for a clear finish that is tough, hardwearing and gives a satin lustre yet is still very easy to apply, even on larger areas, you’re in the right place.
Hard Wax Oil is a particular blend of tough oils combined with special waxes which dries to an exceptionally resilient finish. Ideal for anything that is going to be subjected to water splashes or a lot of handling this oil may not be indestructible but it will stand up to a lot of abuse.
It retains the ease of application typical of an oil and it stays wet long enough to get a smooth, even finish – even on large areas – but is touch dry and tack free in about 20 minutes, and better yet is ready for a second coat after about four hours (in normal conditions).
Hard Wax Oil will build to a bright gloss finish after 2-3 coats. Rub down lightly between coats with a fine abrasive. Once hard dry (allow at least 24 hours) it can be brought to an even brighter shine using either the buffing wheel system or burnishing cream.
For a not-quite-so-bright finish use a mild abrasive to reduce the gloss. For best results lubricate the abrasive with microcrystalline wax to retain the toughness of the oil.
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If you’re looking for a clear finish that is tough, hardwearing and gives a bright gloss yet is still very easy to apply, even on larger areas, you’re in the right place.
Hard Wax Oil is a particular blend of tough oils combined with special waxes which dries to an exceptionally resilient finish. Ideal for anything that is going to be subjected to water splashes or a lot of handling this oil may not be indestructible but it will stand up to a lot of abuse.
It retains the ease of application typical of an oil and it stays wet long enough to get a smooth, even finish – even on large areas – but is touch dry and tack free in about 20 minutes, and better yet is ready for a second coat after about four hours (in normal conditions).
Hard Wax Oil will build to a bright gloss finish after 2-3 coats. Rub down lightly between coats with a fine abrasive. Once hard dry (allow at least 24 hours) it can be brought to an even brighter shine using either the buffing wheel system or burnishing cream.
For a not-quite-so-bright finish use a mild abrasive to reduce the gloss. For best results lubricate the abrasive with microcrystalline wax to retain the toughness of the oil.
